The standard gimbals built into the Taranis-E are not really useless, but the low-cost M9 gimbals with hall sensors are
even better and more accurate. A conversion is worthwhile in any case!
The M9 gimbals are actually intended for use in the Taranis X9d, but can be adapted to the X9e with little effort.
To be able to mount them in the X9e, you must grind the four rings formed on the top of the aluminum frame. This can be done very well with a belt or disc sander. Also a dremel with a small cutting disc should do the job. Then you have to drill out the four mounting holes to 3 mm. On the following two pictures you can see the gimbals before and after these preparations:
Now the first of the old gimbals will be removed. To do this, first remove the two connectors on the trim switches and then the main connector of the gimbal. Caution: Avoid pulling on the cables, as they are very easy to release from the crimped contacts. It is better to grip the plug carefully with a pair of fine pliers and pull it out. Once the three connections have been removed, loosen the four screws and then remove the gimbal.
The installation of the new gimbal is now easy in reverse order. The modified M9 gimbal can be easily attached with the original screws. Pay attention to the correct alignment of the gimbals: the two spring strips for the raster should lie on both sides towards the outside of the transmitter.
Then repeat all steps on the second gimbal.
On the following two pictures you can see an old and a new gimbal (short, silver stick) inside and outside in the transmitter. It is noticeable that the M9 gimbals build much flatter than the standard gimbals. If you look closely, you can see a narrow groove between the gimbal and the housing opening on the outside of the transmitter at the M9 gimbal, since the circular elevation of the gimbal plate is minimally smaller. I do not find that annoying ...
Depending on the desired transmitter mode you have to rebuild one of the Gimbals for gas on raster. This is the left gimbal for mode 2 on my transmitter.
For this purpose, first the reset spring is unhinged and removed at the point marked here with a white
Then adjust the smooth running of the stick and the intensity of the raster to your own taste using the two screws marked with the yellow arrow.
Finally you have to edit the radio profile with companion and activate the option "horussticks", compile a new firmware and upload it to the transmitter.
After a recalibration, the conversion is complete.